NEW: Copper Ion-Plated Tumblers - Engrave away the powdercoat to reveal a deep copper colored finish. (Ion plating adds a copper color, not actual copper.) Use the same laser settings you use for other tumblers for best results. 20 oz. Stainless Steel Polar Camel Tumblers features double-wall vacuum insulation with a clear lid. The mug has a narrower bottom to fit most standard cup holders. It is 2X heat & cold resistant compared to a normal tumblers. Polar Camels are made from 18/8 gauge stainless steel (18% chromium/8% nickel) - also known as Type 304 Food Grade. Try our two newest finishes - Ion plated ghost black and copper, available with either black or white powder coat.
Template
Coming soon
Lasering & Cleaning Instructions:
Supplies needed:
- This item
- Cleaner (see below for recommendations and cleaning instructions)
Laser Raster settings:
- 60 watt - ULS brand laser - Density 4, Speed 55%, Power 100%
- 35 watt - glass tube laser - DPI 600 Speed 45% Power 100%
- 60 watt - glass tube laser - DPI 600 Speed 80% Power 100%
- 120 watt - glass tube laser - DPI 600 Speed 60% Power 55%
- 80 watt -Trotec brand laser- PPI 600 Speed 45% Power 100%
Note: The recommended settings above may need adjustments for best results.
Settings will vary depending on the Brand watt and model
Lasering Flat:
1. Place in laser so area to be engraved is as flat and level as possible. You may want to use a jig or legos to do this. Designs 2.25" wide and less give the best results on 30 oz tumblers. You will want to shrink a bit on skinny tumblers.
Lasering in Rotary:
1. Level your tumbler in the rotary before you engrave for best results. For tumblers with variable diameters, like a 30 oz tumbler, you want the area where your design will go to be the part that is level. Refer to your equipment manual for rotary tool leveling instructions.
2. If you're doing a fulll-length engraving, tilt your rotary so the entire area to be engraved is as level as possible. (This is usually the point where the bottom of the tumbler and the band where the powdercoat meets the steel lip are both the same distance from your lens.
3. Focus at the point halfway between the highest and lowest points when the tumbler has been leveled parallel to the laser's x-axis.This is typically very close to where the powdercoat meets the steel lip.
Clean up:
1. After lasering, use a de-greasing cleaner to clean the tumbler. Spray on the engraved area, let sit for up to 30 seconds, and wipe off with a terrycloth rag. We prefer Dawn Powerwash, available at most grocery and hardware stores. LA Awesome is a good second option.
2. For difficult colors, we recommend following the de-greasing step with a magic eraser/melamine sponge slightly wet with denatured alcohol.
3. Follow with a quick rinse or a wipe with a damp rag
- Notes for difficult colors:
- Gray - do not scrub with magic eraser, do not let degreaser sit. Spray and wipe immediately to prevent discoloration.
- Navy / Blue - if a blue tint remains, scrub fairly vigorously with a melamine sponge wet with denatured alcohol
- Glitter/glossy colors - do not scrub with a melamine sponge. If your tumbler isn't coming clean with degreaser, apply VERY GENTLE pressure with a melamine sponge wet with denatured alcohol.
- Copper/Ghost Black ion-plated styles - engrave with the same settings you use for other tumblers.
- Tough residue - If you didn't quite have enough power and have a few spots that didn't laser through, acetone on a q-tip can be used to very carefully clean the steel patches. Be precise with q-tip placement, as acetone will discolor the powdercoat if it gets on the part you're not trying to remove.
